Dog Is My Co-Pilot

It was a cool 80F in Chiang Mai, so as always the Thai are taking no chances that their pets will freeze to death.  I asked the driver the name of his dog and he replied, "Fluffy." 

I didn't think I'd heard correctly, so once again, in my best Thai, I asked, "Khun maa, chew arai, krup?  The answer once again, "Fluffy." Should I have tipped extra for the dog?

A view of Chiang Mai looking south east from the 10th floor of Chiang Mai Ram Hospital.

Chiang Mai at sunrise

Loi Krathong

As the full moon of the twelfth lunar month (usually in mid-November) lights up the night sky, throughout the Thai kingdom, hundreds of thousands of hot-air ballons are launched into the sky, and ornately-decorated krathong traditional banana leaf floats are set adrift in rivers and waterways in a spell-binding ritual called Loi Krathong - the ‘festival of lights”. This is one of the Kingdom’s oldest and best-preserved traditions.
The Loi Krathong tradition has evolved from the royal rituals of the early Rattanakosin period in which several types of lanterns were set afloat in the Chao Phraya River and its waterways. The practice was subsequently adopted and adapted by common folk.
Krathong floats are made from basic materials easily found around the village and reflect the simplicity of life beyond the palace walls. They are made in various shapes from swans to Mount Meru from Hindu mythology. However krathong floats in the shape of lotus blossoms are most popular.
The Origins of Loi Krathong
There are various fascinating accounts about the origins of Loi Krathong. Historians speculate that the festival originated in Indian and was based on the “Deepavalee” ritual which is also accompanied by floating lights in an act of worship of the Brahmin gods - Brahma, Siva and Vishnu, or an act of remission to the Indian Ganga or Ganges. Some experts said it was based on Buddhist tales whose ritual involved paying respect to the sacred footprint of the Lord Buddha on the bank of the mythical Nammadhammahantee River.
In Thailand, Loi Krathong evolved into a ritual in which offerings are made to Mae Khongkha – the Goddess of Waters - in an expression of gratitude for providing life-sustaining water throughout the year. It is also believed that the offerings are made in an act of appeasement to beg her forgiveness for man’s carelessness in polluting the pristine water that nourishes all life.
Some believe that by setting the krathong adrift, one symbolically casts away one’s grief, misery and misfortunes. Coins are also placed in the krathong as offerings.
For young couples, Loi Krathong is the time to make wishes for happiness together and success in love.
At dusk, fresh flowers and the candles and incense sticks are placed in the krathong. The float is then taken to a waterway where the candle and incense sticks are lit and the krathong set adrift. The lighting of fireworks is then undertaken in an act of worship.
Soon after, attention turns to celebration. The evening’s festivities consist of folk entertainment, stage dramas and dance. Scenes as described in ancient Thai literary accounts are still very much in existence today.

Karma

Here's another one of those death-defying stunts being performed by a utility worker.  The ladder is simply slung acorss the utility wires, a few of your buddies secure the bottom, and up you go.  No stopping traffic, no cones, no nutin'. 

But the guy doing the work is quite happy.  If some errant driver smashes into the ladder and sends him flying off toward India, well then, that's karma.

Have you been good today?

Bambi and...

...the bull. 

If you mess with the bull...

These pics were taken while on a bicycle trip to a nature conserve.  The dwelling in the background (lower picture) is where the caretaker lives.  He told me that it floods regularly, but when it does he just leaves and returns when it's safe. 

A Dog's Life - Thai Style

As I write this the temperature in my apartment is a very comfortable 78F.  While us westerners are glad for the cool temps the Thai are wearing jackets.  They have also put clothes on their dogs.  I mentioned this fact to someone and was scoffed at.  So, here's just a little bit of proof.

Pictures of the recent festival in Chiang Mai and other kewl stuff coming soon!!

Boats, visitors, and spiders big enough to...

People have been looking everywhere for Noah's Ark, and all along it has been rotting away in the foothills near Chiang Mai.

Look for the 'lil yellow arrow.  That's where I live.

You may recognize some of these people, who visited Chiang Mai in October 2010.  This picture taken on our way up to the wat at Doi Sutep, with Chiang Mai in the background.

I attended a private celebration which included Thai music and dancing.  Unfortunately it was at night and this is the only photo that was useable.  I would like to have gotten one of the fire-breather. 

We were out one evening to get a foot massage.  It was a slow night so the massage ladies were taking care of their pets.  My friend tried to convince me that this was a battery-operated toy.  It was not.  I don't know what she feeds this monster but it may explain why she has no children. 

Quiet Places in a Noisy City

Chiang Mai is big and noisy, like much of Thailand, but with just a little bit of walking you can find some peace and quiet.  Here are some photos taken in and around the city, including the wat at Doi Sutep.

A quiet soi near Wat Chedi Luang.

Chiang Mai was once protected by a moat and a wall surrounding the city, which now encircle what is referred to as the Old City. 

Overlooking Chiang Mai.  Taken from Doi Sutep.

There are many sois like this one, which just go on and on.  Sometimes they let you out at a major road, other times they just end.  Watch out for the soi dogs. 

This is a typical soi dog giving me warning.  What you can't see is that I too am sending the dog a message, something along the lines of "back atcha."  There are very specific tactics for dealing with soi dogs, including first-aid. 

Happy cows; not from California.

This man was out for a swim with his horse.  I don't know the circumstances, but not a bad way to spend your day.

 Somebody has to walk up all of  these steps to take the pictures.  It's a tough job.  OK - so I might have actually taken a tram to the top of Doi Sutep.

Those of you who know Lake Tahoe might look at this picture and find it conjuring images of F---y Bridge.  Oh My Buddha!

Signs and Scenes in Chiang Mai

If it's too good to be true, then it is.

So, you might be wondering; did I take this picture at Chiang Mai, or at Lake Tahoe?

These two boys are brothers, I suspect, because the older one will get his ice cream first.

I'm next - oh yeah!

I hope you like this one - it was the one and only shot I could get.  This guy moved very fast.

Does this shirt make me look fat?

One of the best ways to learn to speak Thai is to practice with monks who want to practice speaking English.  I chatted with these two for about an hour before realizing that neither one is from Thailand - they are both Cambodian, taking English language courses at Chiang Mai University.

Wats going on

One of the complaints I hear from many westerners is that they get burned out from visiting wats (temples).  Not so for me.  Every one is different, and while the theme may be the same each place has it's own beauty.  Here are some pictures of Wat Jet Yod in Chiang Mai, built approximately 500 years ago.

 

Talking the Talk

I spend two hours, three days a week, at the Y learning Thai words.  I have a large vocabulary stored on  my computer - not in my brain.

Tuesday and Thursday mornings I attend more classes here, where the focus is on sentences and tones.  If you can't sing, you will never be able to speak Thai.  For example, "khaaw plaaw khaaw" means "plain white rice."  But each word has a different tone, sort of like singing in the shower, and if you get it wrong, well, just eat what they bring you.
This place is also a travel agency, so if you become fed up with slaughtering the Thai language you can always plan your escape to some other part of the country, where, of course, you will  need to speak Thai.

The Neighborhood

Here's one of my favorite Thai restaurants.  But the picture doesn't tell the whole truth.  Directly behind where I am standing to take the picture is an 8-lane "Superhighway."

Many of the main streets in Chiang Mai are congested with traffic.  But with a little exploring you can find alternate routes on a quiet soi like this one.  A "soi" is a side street adjacent to a major street.  They are usually quiet and pleasant to walk.

Home Sweet Home

Here's where I live.  Top to bottom:  inside the apartment; the balcony; and view from the balcony.